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A selection of the latest climbing news and blog posts.
That One Time: Golfed! A Climber Car's Short, Brutal, Traumatic Life I drove the Golf across the West, along the backwater dirt roads of New Mexico and the Colorado alpine, where its low-slung chassis slammed into potholes, ground up slabs, and scraped over rocks. At 5’6”, I could sleep diagonally in the hatchback, which I did during Rifle summers until the “Golf Cart’s” interior took on a gamey odor.
A Snowy Hike Around the Ogwen Valley, January 2018 I always check the weather reports before I go up in the mountains - it's a habit that's become second nature. The week before I set off on a new adventure, I'll psych myself up by scrolling through various weather reports and mentally prepare for conditions that might affect the terrain.
The Importance of the Pre-Send Routine After we’ve worked a route, we’re ready for redpoint burns. A routine guides our attention in predictable ways and gives us confidence as we move toward an unpredictable and stressful redpoint. Doing a pre-send routine requires our full attention.
GB Climbing Team member Rhoslyn Frugtniet flashes 8a+ in Céüse 24 year-old Rhoslyn Frugtniet has just confirmed herself as one to watch on the sport climbing scene, after a very successful trip to Céüse in France, where she flashed Face de Rat and climbed several other 8a+s and 8as. Rhos has previously climbed several 8bs and is hot on the heels of Britain's strongest sport climbing females.
Rungofarka, Himalaya: Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau first ascent video In autumn 2017 Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau forged their way up unclimbed Rungofarka, a difficult 6495 m peak in the remote Zanskar massif in the Indian Himalaya. Climbing alpine style over five days, the American alpinists followed the North Ridge and breached difficulties up to M6 WI4+ 1200m.
Interest in Lockerbie after my piece on a visit last week. The tragedy of Servicemen taking their own lives years after conflict. Heading North after Yesterday I was interviewed about the Lockerbie tragedy in Ayr by the BBC. It was another hard piece to talk about but at least it is done and we will see what happens. It is terrible that so many ex military are in the news just now after taken their own lives after leaving the services.
1: Unbroken You haven't heard this story yet. But, maybe you have. Maybe it's a sister, a girlfriend, a best friend. Maybe it's you. Survivor stories like these are creating a global framework for how to end sexual violence-by talking about it. If there is any hope for having meaningful, nuanced discussions about this, transparency is our greatest ally.
Latok I Climbed From the North, but North Ridge Remains Incomplete Though Latok I was first climbed in 1979 via the East Ridge by two teams of Japanese climbers, the grand prize on that mountain—the 8,2000-foot North Ridge—has rejected some 30 teams who’ve attempted it since 1978.
Asiad huge opportunity for sports climbing: Mountaineering Foundation Prez Speaking to ANI, Chouhan said the sport would need proper recognition and promotion from the government to develop further and meet the international level. "It is a very big opportunity for a sport like sports climbing, which is new and is not known to many people.
8a+ Flash in Céüse by Rhoslyn Frugtniet 24 year-old Bristol-based climber Rhoslyn Frugtniet had a very successful first trip to the sport climbing Mecca, Ceuse, in the Hautes-Alpes region of France. Rhos flashed Face de Rat 8a+, a crimpy, technical and overhanging line in the largely blank sector of the same name.
Mountaineering is the new tactic being harnessed by the bravest in the dating game We reported last week that people have a tendency to 'date up'. If there were such a thing as leagues, people prefer to go for partners that are out of them, preferring those who would be considered more desirable. Both women and men are more likely to swipe right on those who are more popular than themselves on the dating site, and good for them.
Tolerance by Nina Caprez A year ago, Beat Baggenstos, the founder of the organisation, had the idea of building a mobile boulder to bring climbing to Syrian refugees and Lebanese youth. Climbing is a powerful activity with plenty of facets.
How to Rope Solo with Pete Whittaker Pete Whittaker takes a look at the art of rope soloing… Rope soloing is simply the ability to climb alone, yet still have the safety of being attached to a rope.
PRESS RELEASE: Tessa Lyons Kickstarter Campaign I'm setting off on a journey to illustrate a range of tshirts and kit that reflect my enjoyment of the beautiful place I live in, my love of rock climbing and the mountains. I hope that when you buy one of my tshirts it will see you through many adventures for years to come.
Latok I North Ridge finally climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone Forty years after the legendary first attempt, the fearsome North Ridge of Latok I has now finally been climbed all the way to the summit by the Slovenian mountaineers Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar and Britain's Tom Livingstone.
PRODUCT NEWS: Greenwood GV Designed for hillwalking and trekking below the snowline, the Greenwood GV offers reliable multi-surface grip, durable cushioned support and 3-season waterproof protection. Improved traction on a variety of surfaces.
Mountain Hares Fall to 1% of 1950s Population Mountain hare numbers on moorlands in the eastern Highlands have declined to less than one per cent of their historic levels, according to a newly published long-term scientific study. The blame, say the study's authors, lies chiefly with intensive culling of hares on grouse moors.
Trailer: Free Solo-The Full-Length Film About Alex Honnold's Iconic Freerider Ascent "People who know a little bit about climbing are like, 'Oh, he's totally safe.' And then people who really know exactly what he's doing are freaked out." - Tommy Caldwell.
The Journey V7 " I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did".
Wild Child Someone recently asked me how I got so into the outdoors. I didn't grow up with mountain climbing parents and in a sense I'm quite the black sheep in my family. An apple that fell from the tree when there was a storm outside, as my uncle once put it.
Dani Arnold climbs the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 4 minutes News has just come in about the record-breaking speed ascent of the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses, carried out on 27 July 2018 by Dani Arnold who climbed the 1200 meters away in just 2 hours and 4 minutes.
Uein Line, new rock climb up Große Fermeda in Geisler Dolomites The duo shared one pitch of grade III climbing up the route first climbed on 4 August 1887 by mountain guide Michele Bettega together with Edward Theodore Compton, T. Martin and Karl Schulz, then continued independently for another three pitches to reach the summit.
Heiligkreuzkofel Via Ferrata, Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel Via Ferrata Sass de la Cruscz. We climb the Sas dla Crusc via Ferrata which is an exposed rock climb that is only partly secured. First we walk away from Santa Croce path no7, on a pretty path, rising at first amongst the dwarf-pines, then on scree to get to the bottom of the wall where the via ferrata begins.
World Youth Climbing Championships: gold for Laura Rogora, Sam Avezou, Ekaterina Barashchuk and Gian Luca Zodda BOULDERING Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 qualified athletes Sam Avezou of France and Italian Laura Rogora soared to 1st place on the last problems of Youth A Bouldering finals in Moscow. A crowd-facing start kicked off the final for the 6 female athletes.
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