Read all the latest blogs posts and news from professional and amateur climbers in the UK and beyond.
Brittany Goris Sends Notorious Joshua Tree Crack Stingray Of projecting Stingray, Brittany Goris wrote, "I wanted a climb so special it felt like I was in a relationship with it. The kind of climb that takes you on a journey. The kind of climb that changes your life."
Michael Hagen, Kate Zander win final Breck Ascent ski mountaineering long-course race of the season BRECKENRIDGE - Breckenridge locals Michael Hagen and Kate Zander won the final Breck Ascent ski mountaineering long-course race of the season Monday on Peak 7.
Climbing Grief Fund Opens Grants to Climbers Affected by Grief, Loss, and Trauma The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering, or alpinism.
Crusty Corner: Why Grades Matter-9 Essential Truths About Climbing Ratings They let us know where we're at in our climbing, they help with goal-setting, and they can even be part of a healthy climbing process.
JOBS: Boulders Cheltenham is now hiring! Established in 2008, Boulders has helped to grow and support the South Wales climbing community for 12 years. Building on the success of our centre in Cardiff, we are on the cusp of launching a second site in Cheltenham. Our Cheltenham facility will initially be bouldering only, and we're aiming to be open in April 2020.
Book Review - Skye's Cuillin Ridge Traverse Thirty-five years ago I failed to traverse the Cuillin Ridge. I had never climbed on Skye before, and naively thought that a 9am start from Slichagan would give me enough time to complete the route and meet my new girlfriend at the other end in Glen Brittle at 5pm.
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview As documented, on 7 February the 29-year-old German mountaineer Fabian Buhl climbed Cerro Torre in Patagonia via the West Face Ragni route and then paraglided off the summit mushroom at dawn.
Pinnacle Club secures National Lottery support for centenary plans The Pinnacle Club - a national club for women climbers - has been awarded a National Lottery Heritage Fund grant of £70,000, to create a multimedia archive to mark its centenary in 2021.
Julie's Picks: 8 Cool-Weather Climbing Essentials The world's only battery-powered chalk bag, the Hot Forge Heated Chalk Bag has been the biggest upgrade to my enjoyment and performance on cold climbing days. My hands have always been quick to go numb, and this techy chalk bag brings a little relief and some blood back to my wooden fingers.
Seana Bhraigh Munro 254 - 927 metres/3041 feet. A hill not to rush. In memory of Phil James Assynt MRT Team Leader killed in an avalanche on Seana Bhr Seana Bhraigh past visits. As most will know the Munro Seana Bhraigh is a long way from anywhere. Some guidebooks say it is one of the remotest Munros about. The hill is best approached by Loch Coire Mhoir is reached by most by a private track up Strath Mulnzie, where a mountain bike is extremely useful.
What Pegman Saw - Peak Performance "What Pegman saw" is a weekly challenge based on Google Streetview. You can read the rules here. You can find today's location on this page, from where you can also get the Inlinkz code. This week's location is Vanuatu. Peak Performance. I woke up grumpy.
PRODUCT NEWS: Blue Ice - premium rucksacks, harnesses and ice axes Blue Ice is celebrating its 10th year. To demonstrate how far they have come in terms of technical product you only have to look at this year's offering of best-in class-products for all aspects of mountaineering.
8b+ in a Day by Molly Thompson-Smith Molly Thompson-Smith has redpointed Via del Quim 8b+ in Margalef, Spain, on her first redpoint go and in a day. This is likely the hardest one-day sport ascent by a British woman to date. Northern Irish climber Lucy Mitchell ticked 8b/+ in a day in Chulilla in 2016.
Keenan Takahashi: Road to Tokyo Bouldering Edit It "wasn't supposed to be a climbing trip," yet Keenan Takahashi found time to send four double-digit problems, including one V15 and two V14 FAs, during his time in Japan.
Climb Assist Beta Provides 3D Topo Maps of Popular Climbing Destinations The Climb Assist team is using photogrammetry to create detailed, interactive crag models, overlaid with route information, providing a whole new way to find beta.
Brittany Goris makes first female ascent of Stingray at Joshua Tree, USA American rock climber Brittany Goris has made the first female ascent of Stingray 5.13d at Joshua Tree, USA.
'Mountaineering is a battle against nature' Soldier and veteran mountaineer Colonel Ranveer Jamwal on Monday said while those on the sidelines like to refer to mountaineering expeditions as 'conquests' for lack of a better word, he would describe them as battles for survival against nature itself.
Me First: How We Adventure In December 2018, the media tuned in to a dramatic adventure story: Colin O'Brady, a 33-year-old American, was vying to achieve what he called "The Impossible First," the first "solo, unsupported, unassisted" crossing of Antarctica.
Bristol Corporate Climbing Competition - results It's a dark month but this didn't stop our Corporate Members coming out in force to compete in the Corporate-exclusive competition. If you don't know what a Corporate Member is, you can find out more here. It's a discount scheme that allows colleagues to club together to access cheaper pass rates.
Bristol Schools Climbing Championships 2020 Coach Roz gives us the low-down on a fun-filled but challenging days for the young climbers of Bristol. Every year The Climbing Academy hosts the Bristol Schools Climbing Championships. It is a whole day event that consists of three disciplines that aim to test the competitors in different ways: speed climbing, bouldering and sport climbing!
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
PRODUCT NEWS: Swift Protect Pro Dry: A new innovation from EDELRID EDELRID are widely regarded as one of the world's most innovative rope manufactures. For 2020, we've taken this one step further. Check out this video of Michele Caminati taking a rope shearing fall off Elder Statesmen, fortunately there were no lasting injuries.
BMC Paraclimbing Series This year's Paraclimbing series starts on Sunday 23 February at Awesome Walls Sheffield. The competitions will consist of two qualifying routes and the top climbers from each category will go through to a final route.
Win an Arc'teryx Nuclei FL Jacket Back by popular demand after a three-year hiatus, the Nuclei FL Jacket returns to provide warmth. Made with best in class materials to deliver the greatest possible warmth-to-weight ratio that synthetic insulation has to offer. Stronger By Design.
Norway – Thank You Just wanted to thank you again for a cracking time in Norway. I'm very glad the cancellation came up, also glad it was with yourself, you're a top fella and you gauged exactly how to push me and keep thing interesting. I'm very keen to go on to harder / longer routes, I hope that in the future that's with yourself and your team.
Thank You – Torridon Have been unexpectedly busy since returning to Putney from our epic week in Torridon, hence my delayed thank you for as good a week in the mountains as I have enjoyed for a longtime.
REVIEW: Arc'teryx Proton LT Hoody A breathable lightweight synthetic jacket designed for active use, we've found the Proton LT equally handy both as a winter mountain midlayer and as a stand-alone outer for cool days at the crag.
Running on empty. 1976 North to South of Scotland. I have just read Kevin Woods update on his winter traverse of the Munros. The weather is wild and yet Kevin is still pushing on. He is up North and had an early start on Saturday on Conival and Ben More Assynt. He was on the first summit at sunrise chasing the weather.
All Go on Black Buttress Way back in October 1998 I was invited to attend the opening of the North Face Car Park At Torlundy, just north of Fort William.
Meeting The Reaper The seeds of catastrophe are frequently found in a collection of small inconsequential errors. I was watching the birds scatter when Steve called out, as I turned to reply…the mountain exploded. At moments like these, time becomes distorted and the memory a series of disjointed moments.
Underway in Norway Well thanks to Storm Ciera it might have taken 24 hours longer than planned to get here but we are now well underway with our Norway Ice Climbing Trip. Richard, Tracey, Karl, Lee, Tom, Laura, the other Tom, Dave, Tarquin, Rob and me have enjoyed a couple of great days climbing at Krokan.
Icy on Wyvis Steven Andrews and Alex Reid made a possible first ascent yesterday on Creag Coire na Feola on Ben Wyvis. Sideshow takes the steep icefall and easier angled buttress immediately to the right of the main crag.
Thanks for all the kind words. Update on Kevin Woods winter round. Some great tips in winter travel. Many thanks for all the kind words after my blog yesterday. The reason I wrote it I got a moan from someone about having to cancel a talk. The reason I cancelled was my health and especially as my voice was very weak.
Country diary: fell climbers leave their mark on an English Alp Helvellyn, Lake District: The snow coverage is patchy on Striding Edge, revealing scars left by crampons and ice axes.
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 1-Intro and History Arno Ilgner outlines the history of climbing falls, from the "leader must not fall" days to today, when climbers must embrace falls to reach their full potential.
Dee Molenaar and God Dad had originally been named "Deo" - but when he was in his teens he learned "Deo" meant God, and he thought it was a little presumptuous to be named "God" - so he changed his name to Dee. Dad was not a religious man. But he was a spiritually-minded person.
Charles Yonge obituary Other lives: Climber, explorer and caver renowned for discovering caves all over the world.
FRI NIGHT VID: Ondra falls off a 7a Up is down, black is white and Ondra has fallen off a 7a sport route. Twice. The incident was filmed in Croatia at the climbing area of Istria and it's a shocking watch. Later on in the film, Ondra manages to casually onsight a few 8b+ routes, but the memory of the 7a fall must haunt him… Part 1:.
All the Way Down and Out: Lessons From an Accident in the Colorado Alpine "Courage overtook me as the word 'rescue' reverberated through the valley. It was the psychological defibrillator I needed. 'F*** a rescue!' I screamed.
REVIEW: Rab Pivot GTX & Guide II GTX Gloves Rab recently updated their glove range, to include a number of Gore-Tex lined models for the first time. From light-and-dextrous climbing gloves to full-on insulated mountain mitts, there's a Rab GTX glove for pretty much every occasion from winter hillwalking through winter climbing to the Alps and beyond.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia The exceptional spell of good weather has resulted in yet another new climb in the Cerro Torre group, this time the hands of Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton who from 6 - 9 February completed Marc-Andre's Visión up the East Face of Torre Egger.
Noon Patrol: An Ode to Traverses Climbing is generally assumed to be an upward sport, but lately I've discovered the joys of climbing sideways.
China Climbing World Cups rescheduled due to Coronavirus The IFSC, the International Federation of Sport Climbing, announced yesterday that due to the ongoing Coronavirus epidemic it has decided no IFSC events will take place in China in April 2020.
VIDEO: Seb Bouin climbs La Rage d'Adam 9b/+ Last year, Seb Bouin made the first ascent of La Rage d'Adam at the Ramirole crag in the Verdon Gorge. He had been attempting the route sporadically since 2015 and made it one of his main…
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Are you ready to party? Join other climbers for a night of dancing and fun as TCA Glasgow hosts a brand new Club Uprising on Sat 28 February 2020. In aid of climbing charity Urban Uprising, we are psyched to invite you to an eclectic night of house, techno, disco, funk and afrobeat.
Partnerships update: Organisational Development Group After being appointed the new BMC partnerships manager, Rob Bishop has been hard at work reviewing current partnerships and scoping out new ones. Let's hear what he's been up to so far:.
Vadim Timonov and Irina Kuzmenko bouldering in Switzerland Kuzmenko for her part checked in with stand start to Dreamtime, the boulder which in its more famous version - sitting down as Fred Nicole did in 2000 to establish the world's first 8C - is still awaiting its first female ascent.
Apologies for having to cancel a few talks recently I am trying to get health sorted out. This week I should have been down South doing a talk for the Mayo family and the Bowland Pennine MRT but unfortunately I have not been feeling great for a while.
Shauna Coxsey officially joins Team GB for Tokyo 2020 Shauna Coxsey has been officially announced as the twentieth athlete to join Team GB at this summer's Olympic Games in Tokyo.
PRESS RELEASE: Climbing trips in Sardinia with Patxi Usobiaga and Hazel Findlay In 2020, Climbing Ulassai Association brings you 2 unmissable climbing events. Are you ready to step up your climbing game or are you after a unique female focused holiday? Either way, take your climbing journey to the newest hotspot of European sport climbing.Ulassai, Sardinia!
18 Useful Apps for Rock Climbers Whether you're looking for a pocket guidebook, a detailed hangboard workout, or crag-specific weather forecasts, there's likely an app for it.
Re-Gram: Show Us Your Old-School Climbing Photos In celebration of our 50th anniversary, we want to see your coolest old-school climbing photos from the last five decades. One winner will receive a pair of Metolius Upshot belay glasses!
Fabian Buhl's Patagonia Cerro Torre paraglide flight footage All previous flights, as Garibotti explained, were carried out after the climbers were transported to the summit by helicopter.
Hochgrat: Trekking Winter If you are looking for a nice little hike, this is the place to be. In a 4-day tour in the Allgäu Alps, the path from the Hochgrat cable car to the Gündlesscharte and back is very easy to master and is also suitable for beginners. In order to start the hike in the Allgäu, one first has to get to the starting point.
Ski Mountaineering Is The Sustainable Winter Sport You Should Try This Year Global temperature in the first month of the year was above the 1981-2010 average, data from Copernicus Climate Change Service shows. It was the warmest January on record in Europe, about 0.2ºC warmer than the previous warmest January in 2007, and 3.1°C warmer than the average January in the period 1981-2010.
Neil Gresham masterclasses at TCA In March, we are hosting a series of exclusive climbing technique masterclasses with one of the UK's top climbers and world-renowned climbing-training expert - Neil Gresham. Running in both Glasgow and Bristol, these are the only chances to book in Scotland and Bristol.
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have set the pace once again at Helmcken Falls in Canada. On 9 February Emmett and Premrl exceeded themselves once again, establishing and freeing the 40 meter Mission To Mars through the steepest part of the cave. So steep in fact that it overhangs a massive 30 meters!
Dry Tooling in Athens - Rizos' Cave Dry-tooling is a form of rock climbing in which ice axes are used to climb rock that is not covered in snow or ice. It has its origins in mixed climbing, ice climbing and more recently sport climbing. Dry tooling is controversial among many climbers.
The White Mountaineering x adidas LXCON Is Still Available! The White Mountaineering x adidas LXCON is, hands down, the most underrated Three Stripes collaboration of the entire year. First spotted on the runways of Paris Fashion Week last summer, Yosuke Aizawa's latest endeavour is a must cop for any sneaker collection, so grab your own pair now while it's still available over at adidas UK!
Lochaber's MRT Reply on the recent incident. Lochaber MRT have replied to their latest incident on Ben Nevis. It's a thoughtful reply and highlights a problem with visitors that are not English speaking climbing Ben Nevis and other mountains. How do we advise visitors and make them aware of what they are taking on in a Scottish winter /weather?
IFSC Announces China Events Rescheduling due to Coronavirus During the IFSC Executive Board's monthly teleconference yesterday, a decision was reached to reschedule the World Cups that were due to take place in China - Wujiang and Chongqing - in April due to the ongoing spread of coronavirus. Solutions are being discussed for either postponement or rescheduling of these events.
Interview: USA Climbing CEO Marc Norman Sees the Olympics as Just the Beginning Norman discusses USA Climbing's newly released four-year Strategic Plan and provides an inside look at where the organization is headed.
Deal of the Week: Big Savings on Apparel and Backpacks Save 50% on outdoor clothing and backpacks, so you can spend more on literally anything else: carabiners, rent, pizza, a Roth IRA, etc.
Ben Nevis climbers 'extremely lucky' to be rescued Without proper clothing or kit, the four ‘certainly wouldn’t have survived the night’, said Lochaber Mountain Rescue.
JOBS: The Climbing Lab in Leeds is HIRING ! The Climbing Lab is recruiting a receptionist / instructor.
SHOW REPORT: ISPO 2020 - Final Report Despite the fact the show was quieter than usual, this in no way detracted from the quality of the clobber on show and hitting the shops in the near future. Below is a roundup of the most eye-catching and shiny new gear.
Help ensure our path network is mapped The Ramblers have today launched a campaign, Don't Lose Your Way, to encourage walkers to explore the country in search of unrecorded rights of way. An estimated 10,000 miles of paths across England and Wales could be lost forever if they're not added to the definitive map by 2026.
Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter.
Shauna Coxsey first Team GB sport climber Shauna Coxsey today became the first sport climber selected to represent Team GB at the Olympic Games. GB Climbing is supported by the BMC and Mountaineering Scotland. « Back.
Men'S Mountaineering Clothing Market Satisfactory Note, Challenges & Dominating Players. It also elucidates an in-depth analysis featuring market scope, history, establishment, attractiveness, production, sales volume, and growth potentials, that offers comprehensive lookout towards the ongoing market structure.
Book Review - Day Walks In The Cairngorms Day Walks in the Cairngorms 20 circular routes in the Scottish Highlands by Helen and Paul WebsterVertebrate PublishingCurrent Retail Price: Â£14.95 This pocket-sized guidebook is the latest offering from authors Helen and Paul Webster, most widely known for their popular and informative Walkhighlands website.
Some thoughts on last nights incident on Ben Nevis. I was following the big incident on Ben Nevis yesterday, where 4 walkers were very lucky when they got lost on the summit plateau. Thank goodness they were all located safely despite being badly prepared for a winter trip to Scotland's highest mountain.
Edinburgh Bridge Roof Crack First Ascent by Robbie Phillips Last weekend, Robbie Phillips stumbled across a hand crack on the underside of a bridge after taking a wrong turn while walking back to his van. The smooth concrete crack takes red and yellow hexes…
The perfect volunteering opportunity for climbers TCA has a close relationship with climbing charity Urban Uprising, we host workshops and regularly run fundraisers, such as this month's Club Uprising. Urban Uprising is recruiting volunteers for expanding projects in Bristol, Aberdeen and Glasgow.
Ask an Editor: Are Climbing Magazines Still Relevant? Now that athletes can self-report ascents on social media, does climbing news, as reported by the mags, even still matter?
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland Buildering in Edinburgh: Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has climbed a perfect hand crack below a bridge in Edinburgh, Scotland.
Alpine Climb in Gerontovrachos - Parnassos Gerontovrachos is one of the most important winter climbing areas in southern Greece. There are around 13 routes of mixed and/or only ice climbing during winter time. We woke up at 6.00 and it was a freezing cold, but of course we were very excited to go our climb.
JOBS: Sell Through Support Rep North England and Scotland, Equip Outdoor Technologies Equip Outdoor Technologies UK Ltd specialise in the design and marketing of technical outdoor clothing and equipment. Our experienced and enthusiastic team develop innovative designs, manufactured to the highest standard and brought to market throughout the world.
Kevin Woods - Winter Munro Round. I am following Kevin Woods on his Winter Munro Round. He started on Mull on Dec the 22 on Ben More. If he completes he will be only the third person to complete this epic walk. The late Martin Moran and Steve Perry have done previous winter rounds. There is a great piece on the attempt on UKC hillwalking.
Mountaineering Boots Market Future Trends 2019 - Arc'teryx, Asolo, La Sportiva, Evolv Sports, Boreal, Five Ten, Lowa, Salewa Global Mountaineering Boots Market Research Report 2019-2025 prepared by the Market Research Place consists of a complete set of analyzed information about the global Mountaineering Boots market in a well-informed arrangement. The report has used graphs and tables to help understand market trends, drivers and market challenges.
Training Courses for club members A programme of skills-training courses in scrambling, climbing and navigation specifically designed for members of BMC affiliated clubs. The BMC and the AMI are working together on this programme to offer club members the opportunity to learn skills to help them to become more independent walkers, climbers and scramblers.
The Old Man of Stoer - a few comments/ memories. The Old Man Of Stoer is a classic climb on the North West Coast the Stoer peninsula North 0f Lochinver. to mountaineers and climbers it is a classic sea stack made immortal by the late Tom Patey in his wonderful Classic of Scottish mountaineering One Man's Mountains.
Global Mountaineering Packet Market's Principal To Remain Unchallenged Throughout 2020-2026 A pre-eminent research firm, Reportspedia.com added a fresh report on " Mountaineering Packet ". The study comprises various factors, as like it introspects the vital market trends, illustrious developments, profitable opportunities, and growth tactics followed by tier-1 market players.
Fabian Buhl paraglides off Cerro Torre The dream of leaping off the famous summit mushroom has been caressed by many including Dean Potter who in 2005 opted to leap off nearby El Mocho, and Russian mountaineer Valery Rozov who in 2008 completed a BASE jump off the Compressor route, circa halfway up the mountain.
Uncut: Alex Puccio Sends Epochalypse After Returning From Knee Surgery While knee surgery would sideline most people for months, Puccio was back in the gym working out just one week later. The effort paid off.
Access Fund: BLM Finalizes Flawed Management Plan for Bears Ears The management plan only covers 15% of the original Bears Ears National Monument landscape, and it fails the climbing community, the environment, and Native American Tribes.
Cerro Cachet NW Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist Then we continued to the supermarket. We left with three full grocery carts full of food for our six-week trip and with $900 less in our pockets. We pretty much had all we needed now. William drove us to Puerto Bertrand with his pick-up the next day, 280km south of Coyhiache.
FRI NIGHT VID: Jimmy Webb climbs Lucid Dreaming This week's Friday Night Video is a bouldering masterclass from Jimmy Webb. He attempts Lucid Dreaming, a notoriously crimpy Font 8C+ which is very difficult to find in the right condition. On the…
Calling all adventurers for the London Mountain Film Festival 2020 The BMC is excited to be partners of the first and only resident Mountain Film Festival in London, which launches this year on 2-3 May 2020 at the Royal Geographical Society and will feature a number of awesome UK premieres!
The future of Stanage: have your say A public consultation is currently running to gather views on the future management of the North Lees Estate which contains a large section of the iconic Stanage Edge. The BMC is responding to this consultation but we are encouraging individual climbers and walkers who are passionate about this landscape to respond too.
SHOW REPORT: ISPO 2020 - New Climbing Gear We spent the start of the month catching up with brands at the big winter gearfest: ISPO. Despite the fact the show was quieter than usual, this in no way detracted from the quality of the clobber on show and hitting the shops in the near future. Below is a roundup of the most eye-catching and shiny new climbing gear.
Skye - A new guide book to inspire. In my early days on the mountains Skye was a mystical place. I had joined the Kinloss MRT in 1972 and in these days it was a good 5 hour journey from Moray after work for the weekend. There was no bridge then at Inverness and Skye it was a long journey to catch the ferry to Skye.
D Mountaineering Packet Market 2020: Intensifying & Impressive Business Opportunities Analysis Forecast By 2026 Global D Mountaineering Packet Market report offers the latest industry trends, technological innovations and forecast market data. A deep-dive view of Global D Mountaineering Packet industry based on market Overview, development plans, and opportunities is offered by this report.
Women's Network Aims to Improve Female Access to the Outdoors A new research network has been launched, to look at factors that affect female experiences of running, walking and climbing in the British hills. The result will be a set of recommended measures to improve women's access to outdoor leisure and the uplands.
Hunter Mountaineering - Blog Hunter Mountaineering - Mountaineering, Climbing, Guiding, Instruction, Coaching.
Uncut: Watch Chris Sharma Send Catalan Witness the Fitness Catalan Witness the Fitness has been called either V15 or V14 by the climbers who have repeated it. Allow us to settle the debate: It looks hard.
Deal of the Week: Climbing Liquidation Sale While supplies last, score sweet deals on hangboards, climbing shoes, trad pro, lockers, and more.
Flowchart: How to Choose the Ideal Climbing Shoe Whether this is your first or 50th pair of rock shoes, this flow chart should help you find the right style.
Snow Hunting again on Fuar Tholl Snow hunting again today this time in Coire Mainnrichean on the north side of Fuar Tholl. We didn’t really find much of it but it was a nice walk round there and the two narrow strips of snow either side of the impressive Mainnrichean Buttress provided us with an entertaining up and down journey.
Local climbers to present at YMCA Mountaineering Weekend Local rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Quinn Brett will be presenting keynote speeches at the YMCA of the Rockies on Feb. 15 and 16 as part of the organization's annual Mountaineering Weekend.
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor On our first day we entered the valley and explored several lines. We finally stopped in the upper section of the valley below an exceptional crack that ends with some overhangs at the top, untouched and highly appealing. We decided to give this a try next day.
PRODUCT NEWS: KletterRetter Hand Cream and Chalk KletterRetter are a German brand whose reputation is built on their excellent hand cream. For spring 2020 their range of creams, chalk and accessories continues to expand. They're also replacing the current plastic packaging of climbing chalk with more sustainable paper packaging.
Instructor support for BMC clubs New support programme for members of BMC affiliated clubs. Get skilled up with an instructor from Plas y Brenin at a reduced rate! The BMC is working in partnership with Plas y Brenin to offer BMC affiliated clubs the opportunity to hire an instructor for a day at a heavily-subsidised rate.
Will Bosi climbs his first 9b, La Capella at Siurana in Spain 21-year-old William Bosi has climbed La Capella at Siurana in Spain today. In doing so he has sent his first 9b sports climb.
Watch Seb Bouin Make the First Ascent of La Rage d'Adam La Rage d'Adam is likely the hardest sport route in France to date and among the hardest sport routes in the world.
Training: How to Warm Up for Limit Bouldering Learn the proper way to warm up so you can pull hard and crank down on minuscule crimpers.
Hayfork Gully The wind was back up today so we headed away from the worst of it a little and over to An Teallach. Hayfork Gully provided us with a truly great route from the flat floor of Coire Thuill to An Teallach’s highest point, the summit of Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill.
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
An Open Letter to Exum About Their Growing Partnership with Arc'teryx At a time when the Trump administration is pushing for more privatization of our National Parks and public lands, local conservationists are concerned that Exum and its partners are actively playing a part in this troubling predicament.
Will Bosi becomes second Brit to climb 9b GB Climbing Team member and Olympic hopeful Will Bosi has become the second Brit to climb 9b with an ascent of the Adam Ondra route La Capella in Siurana, Spain, also becoming the first Brit to climb 9b abroad. Get 15% off our single trip European Rock policies until 31st October 2019.
2019 South East Roundup 2019 has been another great year in the South East for climbing with new developments, new walls and unfortunately some access issues. For the first time since I have started writing this annual round-up in 2013 I have not contributed anything to the climbing in the South East.
The privilege of a broken heart The most dangerous of all lies are those that we tell ourselves. And for what? Mostly, because we are scared. Fear is absolutely normal. A basic evolutionary instinct. It tells us to pay attention to something that we are not seeing. And the only way out of fear is to face it.
NEWSFLASH: La Capella 9b by Will Bosi 21-year-old Will Bosi has become the second Brit to climb the grade of 9b and the first Brit to climb 9b abroad with an ascent of La Capella 9b in Siurana, Spain. La Capella was a project bolted by David and Carles Brasco in the 90s and first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2011, featuring two intense boulder cruxes within 15 metres of climbing.
Great to be feeling better at last. Well hopefully slowly on the mend no hills yet but a visit to see the girls in Inverness. We had some time together and a chippy tea as a treat. They are such fun at this age. I had a wander with their Mum when they were at school along the Inverness Canal.
Carr, Sorensen win Breck Ascent Peak 10 ski mountaineering races BRECKENRIDGE - Chris Carr won Monday's third Breck Ascent ski mountaineering long-course race of the season on Breckenridge Ski Resort's Peak 10 terrain. In 57 minutes and 49.1 seconds, Carr finished a course that had skiers ascend from the Beaver Run Parking Lot before ascending Lower Lehman to Upper Lehman to a boot-pack hike adjacent to Grits.
The World Beneath Their Feet by Scott Ellsworth review - mountaineering for the Führer Scott Ellsworth begins his study of the men of the 1930s who jostled to be the first atop the Himalayas by saying that theirs was “a race like no other”. He ends it by stating that, actually, it was.
Brilliant on the Black Carls We whiled away yesterday with a wind blown but pleasant stroll along the wild Wester Ross coastline. Today was back to mountaineering and what a stella day it was. Enjoying the still air and sunshine we tripped along between Creag Dhubh and Sgurr Ban on the eastern section of Beinn Eighe’s ‘Great Ridge’ taking in…
Drew Ruana Sends Sleepwalker With Sleepwalker, Ruana joins a small, elite list of boulderers that have climbed V16, and perhaps even more impressive, is how smooth he looks on the line.
Seb Bouin climbing La Rage D'Adam in Verdon Gorge The video documenting the first ascent of La Rage D’Adam, the 9b/+ sports climb located in the Gorges du Verdon in France freed by the French climber Sébastien Bouin in September 2019.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road, a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.
First senior comps for GB Ice Climbing Team in Saas-Fee The GB Ice Climbing Team headed to Saas-Fee, Switzerland, on 24-25 January to take on the exciting deciding round of the 2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup season, their first senior Ice Climbing World Cup ever. Read on to hear their thoughts:.
How to Buy Climbing Gear on a Budget Here’s an in-depth guide on how to buy climbing gear on a budget through outlets, discount stores, alternate market deals, gear rental shops and buying used gear.
SHOW REPORT: ISPO 2020 - New Clothing Despite the fact the show was quieter than usual, this in no way detracted from the quality of the clobber on show and hitting the shops in the near future. Below is a roundup of the most eye-catching and shiny new clothing.
PRODUCT NEWS: Mountain Equipment & Rab Clothing - up to 40% off deals! We still have some incredible clothing from Mountain Equipment and Rab with a huge 40% off. Be quick - these are selling fast and will do even faster now the cold weather is returning! View Mens Mountain Equipment SALE. View Womens Mountain Equipmenht SALE.
Blair Fyffe, Climbing and Things I recently returned to McMurdo after about six weeks out on the Eastern Thwaites Glacier Ice Tongue. It has been very much a season of long delays interspersed with very busy periods, or if like a terrible pun, hurry up and Thwaite.
Mixed Metals and Galvanic Corrosion: Ticking Time Bomb or Tempest in a Teapot? To many climbers, the utterance of the words "mixed metals" brings thoughts of self-destructing bolts and dangerous routes, but is galvanic corrosion really a concern?
Ice Climber Free Solos WI5 With a Sea Kayak "I had arguments with people and I wanted to prove that I can free solo WI5 so well that I can even do it with the weight and awkwardness of a sea kayak." Makes sense.
USA Climbing 2020 Bouldering Open National Championship: Highs and Lows This year's Bouldering Nationals featured breakout stars, interesting routesetting, and even some cracks. Here's the best and worst from the event.
VIDEO: Out of Obsession Out of Obsession is a short film focussing on British boulderer Dan Turner which follows his commitment to bouldering and training. Dan pinpoints five problems which he thought represented some of the best climbing in the UK and filmmaker Rowan Spear-Bulmer follows him through the highs and lows of attempting each.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria Acting on a tip-off from Rolando Garibotti, after this "warm-up" they then followed a thin line of ice circa 200m high, described as being "not too long but very beautiful." This enabled them, after one abseil, to join Esperando La Cumbre, established in 1996 by Maurizio Giordani and Gian Luca Maspes.
Have you seen inside The Mothership expansion? Take a look inside Bristol's newest climbing space and meet some of the people who use it. The Mothership recently doubled the amount of climbing space it offers by opening an entire 2nd floor of climbing.
From Tennis to climbing Bristol strongman and BD Local Hero Jonny tells us more about his route into climbing, his relationship with route-setting and an extremely exciting 2020! You might also like: Meet Fraser and Tom and Keeping it local For more follow our BD Local Heroes playlist on YouTube and stay tuned to our social channels.
PRESS RELEASE: Women's Trad Festival 24-26 July - Leader Applications Now Open! Join us for a weekend of trad climbing at the fifth Women's Trad Festival in the Peak District, 24th-26th July 2020! Participate in a unique event and be part of the ever-growing, strong, supportive and psyched community growing around the festival. Learn new skills, develop your climbing and meet and be inspired by other keen climbers.
YCS 2020: Round 2 Start Times We hope you're all looking forward to Round 2 of the Youth Climbing Series 2020 this Saturday 8 February. The format for the roped rounds is; four roped climbs, one attempt per climb, up to six minutes on each climb. Youth E and D will be top roping and youth C, B and A will be lead climbing.
Nottingham MC Winter Weekend Day 2 Cairngorm Guides and Talisman Mountaineering's photo and video blog, featuring regular winter condition reports for walkers, climber and skiers.
Searching for Snow on Beinn Aligin There’s not been a lot of winter for the start of our Torridon Winter Mountaineering Week but we’ve been out enjoying ourselves none the less. The plan which we’d hatched was to seek out some old snow that we’d hoped might still be laying in the deeper gullies.
Leh: Ladakh Mountaineering Association Organises 'Ice Climbing Festival' Home India News City News Leh: Ladakh Mountaineering Association organises 'Ice climbing festival' Ladakh Mountaineering association organises 'Ice climbing festival' in Leh.
The Creation and Destruction of Exum's Arc'teryx Academy Yesterday I stood high in the mountains atop a wind-whipped rock outcrop when inspiration licked* me like a lightning-kissed Tesla tower.
Can Do on Nocando Crack! I left out the Guy Steven and Steve Holmes' ascent of Nocando Crack on January 29 in Coire an Lochain in the Northern Corries in my last post January Scottish Winter Diary because Nocando Crack is neither a new route or can be classified as 'an early winter repeat'.
What was your first Ice Axe? I put a photo on twitter asking what was your first ice axe? I did not get an ice axe till I joined the RAF Mountain Rescue Team at Kinloss in 1972. Many made their own axes or bought ex War department ones and to some the slatters hammer became a modified gully axe.
Mini-Episode 9: How The F ck Are You? We'll be back on April 1st with two new full episodes. This mini-episode is comprised of episode ten with Corey Mowry, which if you haven't listened to yet, we highly recommend. Also, who is this "we" I keep referring to? This episode is brought to you by Deuter, Gnarly Nutrition, Allez Outdoors, and Têra Kaia.
Jimmy Webb bouldering Bishop extreme Lucid Dreaming The video of American rock climber James Webb repeating Lucid Dreaming at Bishop, California, USA.
January Scottish Winter Diary It's been a tough January in the Scottish mountains with almost non-stop winds and long periods of thaw. Conditions on the mountains have changed day by day and have often been completely different from east to west. Here is a brief summary of new route activity together with a notable early repeat:.
Watch Jimmy Webb Take on His Anti-Style on Lucid Dreaming "Before this, I honestly would bet all the money in the world against the fact that I could do something like Lucid."
Mountaineering Scotland The mountain safety work done by Scottish Mountain Rescue and Mountaineering Scotland was in focus at the Scottish Parliament this week. Our two organisations were invited to a parliamentary reception at Holyrood to meet with MSPs and others to discuss the work being done and the potential for future projects and developments.
Summit Roundtable Podcast: The Difference Between Highballs and Free Solos The Climbing staff discuss a recent highball first ascent on the Grandma Peabody boulder and why highballs aren't free solos-most of the time. Plus, another game of Guess That Gram.
Where to Watch the 2020 USA Climbing Bouldering Nationals Watch the country's best competition boulderers face off for the title of national champion.
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la Sombra in Valle la Luz with Max Didier and Ian...
FRI NIGHT VID: Soloing the hardest mixed climb in Hyalite Canyon This week's Friday Night Video is about dirtbag climber Matt Cornell soloing the hardest mixed climb in Hyalite Canyon, Montana. Conrad Anker provides some context to the difficulty and notoriety of…
JOBS: We're Hiring - Psychi Social Media Marketer, Stockport Psychi are looking for a Social Media Marketer to join our team. About You. The successful candidate must have an in-depth understanding of social media and will be responsible for the creation and communication of engaging content across all social media and digital platforms including but not limited to; Facebook, Instagram and YouTube.
SHOW REPORT: ISPO 2020 - New Footwear We spent earlier this week catching up with brands at the big winter gearfest: ISPO. Despite the fact the show was quieter than usual, this in no way detracted from the quality of the clobber on show and hitting the shops in the near future. Below is a roundup of the most eye-catching and shiny new footwear.
Olympic Climbing Wall bid in Country Park Opposed A proposal to build an Olympic-standard climbing wall as part of a £2 million project in Peterborough's Nene Park - a green space and country park - has been opposed by local residents, climbers and environmentalists, including television presenter and naturalist Chris Packham, due to its potential to negatively impact the area's flora and fauna.
Moray Mountaineering Club Journal Vol 1 no 2. A classic. In the old days the MMC used to produce a Annual Journal. This was an amazing read like the one I have been given. It was written after a visit by mountaineer Noel Odell to speak to Moray Mountaineering Club. Noel Odell was the last person to see Mallory on Irvine on Everest before they disappeared in June 1924.
Mountaineering Packs Market - Key Players, Size, Trends, Growth Opportunities, Analysis and Forecast To 2025 Global Mountaineering Packs Market research Report 2019 may be a comprehensive business study on this state of business that analyses innovative ways for business growth and describes necessary factors like prime manufacturers, production worth, key regions and rate of growth.
Mountaineering Footwear Market Structure, Industry Inspection, and Forecast 2025 Advanced report on Mountaineering Footwear Market Added by DataIntelo.com, offers details on current and future growth trends pertaining to the business besides information on myriad regions across the geographical landscape of the Mountaineering Footwear Market.
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Gear Institution Omega Pacific Is Closing After 38 years of manufacturing climbing and rescue gear, Omega Pacific has announced that they are going out of business.
BMC/BMMS Mountain Medicine Weekend 2020 Join top doctors for a weekend of UK and high altitude first aid in Hathersage this June. Now in its fifth year, the BMC/BMMS Mountain Medicine weekend offers climbers, hill walkers, mountaineers and skiers the chance to receive first aid training from mountain medicine experts.
Punta Patrì Sud, new ski descent by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey, Mike Arnold Punta Patri - Cima Sud Linea continua: 600 m. 45°/50° 5.2 /E3 Thanks to: The North Face, Furberg snowboard, Phantom bindings, Smith Optics, GrivelLink: www.snowhow.it, FB Davide Capozzi. Full text search.
Lovely tribute to Ian Ramsay in local paper. It was lovely to be sent a copy of one of the tributes to Ian a good pal. Last week we had a great send off to a true friend of many in Killin. The words below sum up Ian. Some lovely tributes to a man who was so unassuming and a traditional Highland policeman.
NEWSFLASH: Damian Hall Breaks Winter Paddy Buckley Record On Wednesday 29th January Damian Hall successfully completed a Winter Paddy Buckley Round in a time of 21:20:30, beating the previous record of 21:37, held by Jim Mann. What makes the achievement all the more impressive is that Damian completed the round in a solo/unsupported style, and with snow on the ground, making it a true winter round.
Summit's Grace Staberg wins World Cup ski mountaineering race in Andorra FRISCO - Thinking back to her solo participation on the International Ski Mountaineering Federation World Cup circuit last year, Summit local Sierra Anderson heard many national anthems when races recognized the top-3 podium placers.
Summit locals O'Keefe, Sorensen win Breck Ascent Peak 9 ski mountaineering races BRECKENRIDGE - Summit County locals Sam O'Keefe and Jill Sorensen won the long and short-course races, respectively, at the second Breck Ascent ski mountaineering event of the season on Monday, Jan. 27. The race took place on Breckenridge Ski Resort's Peak 9.
BMC Hill Walking Event 2020 Bookings are now open for the BMC Hill Walking Event 2020! We'll be looking to build on the vibrant vision created at the hugely successful premiere of the event in 2018 in the Peak District, but this time we'll be heading to Ambleside in the stunning Lake District.
It's a good feeling giving "stuff away" Be aware of the Avalanche Forecast/ weather forecast and be careful in your route choice. Yesterday I had a call asking for some information on climbing guides. It was from one of the leading lights in our Mountaineering Club. He is a top guy who is pushing his mountaineering and does a lot to help the newer members. Over my climbing days I have bought so many climbing guides once they were used most weeks now a lot less.
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a 42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, Action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Scottish Winter Meet Update There are less than four weeks to go before the Scottish Winter Meet. Mountaineering Scotland have issued the following press release:. "Climbers from around the globe will be gathering in Scotland next month for a special event revived by Mountaineering Scotland after a four-year absence to mark the beginning of their 50th anniversary year.
Table Rib Iain Young and John Higham pulled off a superbly-timed piece of exploratory winter mountaineering yesterday when they made the first winter ascent of Table Rib on Cul Mor. Iain takes up the story:. "In the last few days, it's been good to see winter back.
Laghel off-limits at Arco "The owner has the right to do so, but the problem is that Laghel is not a usual crag but is something unique in Arco and in Italy" explained the 26-year-old climber, adding that "We will try to find a deal with the owner, but for now please don't go to Laghel and hope everything will go in the best way possible." Attention!
REVIEW: ISPO 2020 - Best in Show The first major trade show of the new decade brought the world's outdoor industry to Munich in an annual pageant of product fondling and hobnobbing. The emphasis at ISPO is stuff due out the following winter season, and we've enjoyed catching up with brands big and small, to check out the prospects.
PRESS RELEASE: Castle Launches New Sustainability Fund! Applications Open The Castle Climbing Centre is proud to launch the Castle Sustainability Fund: a fund created to support grassroots projects in the UK and around the world to tackle climate change and social inequality. The Castle has committed to investing 10% of annual profits each year into The Castle Sustainability Fund.
Mountaineering Boots Market Overview by Rising Trends and Demand 2019 to 2025 The Mountaineering Boots Market Perspective, Comprehensive Analysis along with Major Segments and Forecast, 2019-2025. The Mountaineering Boots Market report is a valuable source of insightful data for business strategists. It provides the industry overview with growth analysis and historical and futuristic cost, revenue, demand and supply data.
Deal of the Week: Save on Cams and Nuts Save a little money on your dream rack with these deals on trad pro.
The Mountains Are Filled With Ghosts They join such climbers as Alison Hargreaves, Jerzy Kukuzca, Erhard Loretan, Tomaz Humar, Mugs Stump, and Alex Lowe-all were considered among the best in the world when the mountains indiscriminately killed them.
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy Italian alpinist Matteo Della Bordella has repeated Itaca nel Sole on the Caporal in Valle Orco. Established in 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello, this multi-pitch route was freed in 2003 by Cristian Brenna.
Krzysztof Wielicki about His Mountaineering Career Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki climbed Mount Everest in winter 40 years ago and celebrated his 70th birthday at ISPO Munich.
JOBS: Chair of Comp Climbing Performance Group Chair sought for new Competition Climbing Performance Group. It's an exciting time for competition climbing and as we head towards the Tokyo Olympics, the BMC is looking for the right person to chair a new group to oversee our competitions programme, the talent pathway system and the GB Climbing Teams.
International winter climbing meet attracts top ice climbers Streap Alba Geamhradh 2020, the International Scottish Winter Climbing Meet, from 22nd to 29th February, will see international guests teaming up with UK climbers to climb classic routes, technical test-pieces and possibly brand new first ascents, getting a taste of the unique delights of winter climbing in Scotland.
Global Mountaineering Footwear Market : Competitive Dynamics & Outlook 2026 A new Global Mountaineering Footwear Market research report is an in-depth study of the industry including essential frameworks. Global Mountaineering Footwear market report highlights market revenue, share, growth and Mountaineering Footwear market size.
Belaying 5.14: Lost Between the Roles of Parent and Climbing Partner While belaying hard routes isn't much different than belaying easier ones, it gets complicated when you add a parent-child relationship into the mix.
Apply now for a summer Alpine Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust course Applications are still open for this summer's Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust Alpine courses. But hurry, the closing date is 29 February. Each year, the Trust offers three heavily subsidised courses for aspiring mountaineers aged 18 to 30.
Dispatch: Arrival at K2 Base Camp: Apricot Tours K2 Winter 2020 On 22 January, the international Apricot Tours K2 WInter 2020 expedition finally arrived at K2 Base Camp at approximately 2:00 PM local time. The Concordia crossing takes about seven hours under normal conditions, approximately 10 times less than what it eventually took the team to cross it due to the weather.
PRESS RELEASE: Percy Bishton appointed Chief Routesetter for Bouldering at the Tokyo 2020 Games Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Routesetter and co-owner of the Climbing Works in Sheffield has been appointed as the Chief Routesetter for Bouldering at the Tokyo 2020 Games. Bouldering will sit alongside Speed Climbing and Lead Climbing to form the Combined Discipline that will make its Olympic debut on the 4th to the 7th August 2020 in Tokyo.
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,.
How will Brexit affect travel insurance? The UK leaving the EU, with or without a deal, will change the way Brits travel to and from the UK. What does Brexit mean for our holidays? And how will it affect travel insurance? Find out more here. The countdown to the unknown has started: the UK is scheduled to leave the EU at 11pm GMT on 31 January 2020.
"Classic Krakauer - Essays on Wilderness and Risk" by Jon Krakauer This recent compilation contains eleven essays, two or three of which I read before. I consider Krakauer a first class documentary writer. I got hooked when I read Into Thin Air, published in 1997. I read three more of his books. Into Thin Air sparked my interest in mountaineering, and I've continued to read on the subject.
The Sand Rules, traditional climbing on the sandstone towers in the Czech Republic The documentary The Sand Rules by Fabrizio Zampetti and Andrea Rizzi featuring the fascinating rock climbing on the sandstone towers in the Czech Republic and Saxon Switzerland in eastern Germany.
Details of Kerr McIntosh funeral. RIP Kerr. From the family :We are so sad to announce our beautiful dad Kerr McIntosh passed away peacefully on Sunday 19th Jan. A true gentleman and our hero until the end, the best dad and grandad anyone co…
Cerro Torre East Face, 2019 Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto attempt They are joined by Matteo Bernasconi who last year had injured his knee shortly before departure. While awaiting for news from the end of the world, here's the footage of 2019 attempt.Link: ragnilecco.com, FB Matteo Della Bordella, Karpos. Full text search.
Ben Rinnes my local hill - with some old pals a visit to the aircraft crash site. A birthday cake. It is grand to have a wee Corbett on the doorstep and Ben Rinnes at 814 metres is the nearest hill to my house in Burghead it is also the North East most Northerly Corbett. An isolated hill near Dufftown whisky country it has great views of the Moray Firth and the Cairngorms which looked a bit windy today.
The Pretend Toprope "On arriving at the belay, I saw that my partner had tried to put the tube-style belay device in guide mode, but failed."
Review: Denali: A Man, a Dog, and the Friendship of a Lifetime, by Ben Moon Ben Moon, the American climber, adventure photographer, and cancer survivor, has penned a masterful memoir that strikes all the right notes, whether you're a dog lover, a climber, or both.
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti After a failed attempt in 2017 and another in 2018, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have now completed their humungous winter project: the enchainment of all the peaks on the never-ending the ridge that joins some of the main massifs in Valtournenche: the Furggen chain, the Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles and Petites Murailles.
FRI NIGHT VID: 8c+ Multi-pitch by Fabian Buhl This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Ratikon in Switzerland. Fabian Buhl attempts the route Déjà, which was bolted in 1992 by Michi Wyser and Andres Lietha. The pair spent two years bolting…
Colmar & cult Tokyo label White Mountaineering join forces on a new collab Having previously joined forcesÂ with Hood By AirÂ founder Shayne OliverÂ on a directional collection of outerwear designed with the ski slopes in mind, Italian label ColmarÂ has announced its next collaboration comes courtesy of cult Japanese brand White Mountaineering.Â.
Women in Adventure 2020 Film Entries Announced The annual BMC TV and Womenclimb Women in Adventure Film Competition received 30 entries this year and the list of films has now been released online. The competition was conceived in 2014 as an attempt to get more women in front of and behind the camera in the context of adventure and the outdoors.
REVIEW: Patagonia Ascensionist Jacket Patagonia have used Gore-Tex Active, a 3-layer laminate which Gore say is the lightest and most breathable of their 3-layer collection. The 30 denier nylon face fabric feels suitably thin for a shell this lightweight, which has been welcomed when weight and space are a focus in a full winter sack.
Banff Mountain Film Festival Inverness - a great night. Great motivation on the final film about and 82 year old to life - "No Problem a great Mantra" Last night I went to the Banff Mountain Film Festival at Eden Court Inverness. Banff in Canada is a place I know well from my many visits in the 80's, 90, and onwards ice climbing. What a country Canada is and it's amazing a small town like Banff has such a great Film and book festival.
Grace Staberg podiums at pair of French ski mountaineering events FRISCO - After the highs and lows of the Youth Olympics experience, Grace Staberg podiumed at a pair of French Championship series ski mountaineering events this past weekend. In Courchevel, France on Friday, Staberg finished first in a vertical race in the youth 18-20 age-group division.
Behind the Scenes With the 2019 World Championship Routesetters Learn what went on behind the problems for the 2019 IFSC Boulder World Championships, with introspective interviews from the setting team.
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has skied Linea senza frontiere, a new steep ski descent down the south face of Punta Patrì in the Gran Paradiso massif. Bonhomme, who ascended the same line he later skied, reports.
Crib Goch for Sunrise It has been a stunning week of temperature inversions here in Snowdonia and so I was pretty keen to get out for sunrise this morning and make the most of it. A quick text saw Tarquin and Lou on board, an early alarm got me out of bed and then we had a beautiful day…
Understanding Avalanche Conditions During Winter Mountaineering Understanding avalanche conditions during winter mountaineering is an important part of safe climbing. Learn about conducting snow pit tests, pregame research and avalanche survival practices.
Stefano Carnati climbing Biographie at Céüse in France Few routes in the world have captured the imagination as much as Biographie, the groundbreaking work of art of mother nature at Céüse in France, bolted by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille in the early 1990s and freed, after an epic siege, by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Ben Lui - The Helicopter used as a belay to lower the stretcher, then stuck overnight on the ridge and given a Parking Ticket. Ben Lui at 3707 feet is a superb mountain in the southern Highlands of Scotland, at the head of Glen Fyne. It has five well-defined ridges radiating out from the summit. Four corries lie between the ridges; including Coire Gaothaich which lies on the northeast side of the mountain.
Deal of the Week: Save on Last Season's The North Face Apparel, Footwear, and Gear Right now, you can get last season's jackets, tents, shoes, sleeping bags, and more from The North Face for 30% off-and often more than that.
Alex Honnold Responds to Internet Questions Watch Alex Honnold provide genuine answers to questions like "How do you get down?" and "Does Jared Leto free solo?"
Kelly, LaRochelle win final Arapahoe Basin ski mountaineering race of the season ARAPAHOE BASIN SKI AREA - With more than 50 skiers on the Arapahoe Basin Ski Area slopes, familiar faces Rory Kelly and Nikki LaRochelle won Tuesday's men's and women's final Rise and Shine Rando Series ski mountaineering race of the winter.
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch On 27 November 2019 the German climber and mountaineer Fabian Buhl made the first free ascent of Déjà, a 400m alpine multi-pitch on the 7th Kirchlispitze in Switzerland's Rätikon massif which now checks in at 8c+.
Dee Molenaar: 1918-2020 Dad and Moz: Together again. Daddy passed away yesterday morning. I guess some part of me felt that if we didn't announce his death, it wouldn't be real.
UGG x White Mountaineering FW20 Delivers Chunky and Cozy Capsule UGG x White Mountaineering's FW20 collection is priced at $225 USD for the Kenton slippers, $250 USD for the CA805 sneaker and $275 USD for the Classic Short boots. The pieces are slated to become available starting in September.
JOBS: Full-time Routesetter - The Arch Climbing Wall We're looking for a great routesetter to join us! If you're looking for an exciting environment to share your creative routesetting with a wide audience and further develop your skills, this is a dream setup.
BMC Welsh Bouldering Championships 2020 National Competitions kicks off with the BMC Welsh Bouldering Championships on 1 February at the Climbing Hangar in Swansea! With a time limit of only two hours and eight blocs to conquer, created by our masterful route setting team with holds supplied by our sponsors Beta Setting, who will be crowned Welsh Bouldering Champion 2020?
VIDEO: Kilian Jornet vs Base Jumper Base Jumper Tom Erik Heimen and trail runner Kilian Jornet "race" up and down the iconic Romsdalshorn in Norway. Romsdalshorn is situated in Rauma, in the middle of the beautiful fjordlands on the west coast of Norway. Kilian and Tom Erik started their race from the trailhead, carrying all they needed for their ascent / descent.
What the BMC is deciding about unauthorised encampments and trespass The BMC is aware of the Government consultation on "Strengthening police powers to tackle unauthorised encampments" and will be submitting a formal response in due course. The deadline for submissions is 5 March 2020. Join online today by Direct Debit and save 50% on your first year's membership.
Hugo Parmentier powers up his first 9b, Eagle-4 at St. Léger du Ventoux The 21-year-old caught many off guard with his repeat of Eagle 4, a stout test at Saint Léger du Ventoux freed in January 2018 by Adam Ondra shortly before his historic, world's first 9a+ flash on Super Crackinette.
Interview: winners of the 2020 Montane Spine Race The notorious 268-mile Montane Spine Race started on Sunday 12 January 2020 at 8am. Competitors had seven days in which to complete the whole Pennine Way, resting when, and if, they needed to. This year, Storm Brendan's 80mph winds left some entrants navigating in the dark on their hands and knees.
The Gear Closet: Ski Mountaineering The all-new G3 FINDr 94 is a ski mountaineer's dream: It combines a three-dimensional Canadian aspen wood core with full-length carbon fiber and polyurethane mounting plates for a lightweight, slender ski that holds up in icy couloirs and on exposed faces.
JOBS: Yonder Head Coach, London An exciting opportunity to join the Yonder Team as HEAD COACH. Yonder is one of the newest additions to London's growing climbing scene, and proud to be considered a leading facility for all levels. We are looking for someone passionate about spreading the joys and skills of climbing.
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion Monte Fibion NE Face, Brenta Dolomites Approach: The gully is located to the right of Cima Santa Maria and in front of Monte Fibion. The approach is carried out from Passo Carlo Magno, tale the cable car and follow the path that leads towards Crosette, however, continue straight on.
PRODUCT NEWS: Rockay Sustainable Performance Socks Redefine Sports Apparel & Help Clean Our Rockay's new collection is made from 100% recycled materials. A Danish sportswear brand Rockay launched a new, fully sustainable collection of performance socks. Living up to the company's mission of sustainable manufacturing and recycling, the product line is made from 100 percent recycled materials retrieved from the oceans.
The Arc of Profanity While making the second ascent of The Edge of Profanity in November, Dave Brookes and Jules Harris noted that there was further new route potential on the Left-Hand Buttress of Creagan Cha-no on Cairn Gorm. On January 18 they returned to the cliff and made the first ascent of an excellent technical test-piece called The Arc of Profanity.
VIDEO: Climb Your Dreams In this short film, Climb Your Dreams, New York City-based Raheim Robinson daydreams of escaping the city in search of a natural landscape, drawn out of the daily grind and into the outdoors by his passion for climbing.
The Montane Spine Race - Full Report After an emotional week the Montane Spine Race is finally over. Whilst the event itself is clearly exhausting for the competitors, spare a thought for those sat at home who have been glued to their computer screens around the clock, endlessly watching the dots move steadily north.
REVIEW: Adidas Terrex Agravic Flow Running Shoes Described as being 'for casual runs and long sections on pavement or trails', the Agravic Flow is a lightweight shoe that seeks to straddle the line between urban and off-road running.
Kerr McIntosh I am the bearer of more sad news. "The Kerr" - Kerr McIntosh has passed away. He was my officer in charge at RAF Kinloss. In these days being an officer in charge of a RAF Mountain Rescue Team was not an easy task. It was one that few volunteered for and Kerr McIntosh was one of the few who did.
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Papichulo at Oliana Cédric Lachat has celebrated his return to Oliana with a fast repeat of Pachamama, one of the reference 9a+ routes at this Spanish venue established in 2009 by local crag master Chris Sharma.
YCS 2020: Round 1 Start Times We hope you're all looking forward to the first round of the Youth Climbing Series 2020 this Saturday 25 January. The format for the boulder round is two and a half hours, ten problems and five attempts per problem. You can find the start times for your region below.
White Mountaineering Saucony Fall Winter 2020 Release Info - SneakerNews.com Paris Fashion Week was undoubtedly an event of change and a sign of the years to come. In expectation, the Massachusetts-based imprint has already planted the seed likely far earlier than any of us can know, bearing fruit at the runway show of White Mountaineering whose contract with adidas seems to have come to a close.
Colmar's latest designer collaboration is with White Mountaineering Presented during Paris Fashion Week and following on from a Hood By Air hook-up.
Get watching the new 2020 Women in Adventure films! We've been flooded with a wave of fantastic fresh entries to the sixth annual BMC TV and Womenclimb Women in Adventure Film Competition and have 30 new female-led adventure films to share with you.
Top Spanish bouldering area Hoya Moros for sale Click here to sign the petition on change.org. Full text search.
Not a Lot Of People Know this ? These notice boards have been in my local forest for many years. They were so ahead of there time. I was told the local Community Council put them up what a great idea and so forwarding thinking. It reads : That litter can last a long time in the environment.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger crevasse fall on Gasherbrum Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have abruptly ended their winter expedition to Gasherbrum I and II in Pakistan after a terrifying fall into a crevasse that could have had disastrous consequences.
Two x 8c+/9a by Hamish Mcarthur 17-year-old Hamish Mcarthur has ticked two 8c+/9as - Jungle speed and A muerte - in Siurana, Spain in just two sessions per route, jumping from a previous personal redpoint best of 8a. Hamish is known for his junior indoor competition podium results, but this was his first serious sport climbing trip.
How to train novice members in your club, winter skills This popular training event will be returning on 1-2 February 2020 to offer training and support to experienced club members when taking novice club members out in winter conditions.
White Mountaineering Eyes the Summits for Its Fall/Winter 2020 Styles Technical apparel and accessories swathed in earth tones.
All About Snow in Stob Coire nan Lochan Having covered much about movement skills on the Weekend Winter Skills course yesterday today was pretty much all about snow. The team and me trekked up into Glencoe’s Stob Coire nan Lochan where we talked about and looked at what might contribute to instabilities in a snow pack and how with our route choice we…
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Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal In Valsertal Martin Schidlowski and Raphaela Haug have climbed Catwalk, a probable new mixed line up the NE Face of Hohe Warte.
White Mountaineering The complete White Mountaineering Fall 2020 Menswear fashion show now on Vogue Runway.
Tarmachan Mountaineering Fabulous snow Great day for wildlife photography Beautiful light for a beautiful creature Brilliant consolidated and untrodden…
Requirements for Climbing Mount Everest Whether you're climbing as part of a commercial expedition team or on a private team, you'll need a permit issued by the Nepalese Government to visit Mount Everest. The Nepalese Government issues a few kinds of permits, but they are usually confined to three visit categories:.
Brilliant on Buachaille Etive Beag A real change in the weather for the start of the Winter Skills Weekend. With Nigel, Andy, Luke, David, Al and Louis we’ve been up on Stob Coire Raineach the northern top of Buachaille Etive Beag. Along the way we covered a lot of the movement skills involved in using and ice axe and crampons…
Poon hill Trek Poon hill trekking is hands down, the best, short and relatively easy trek Nepal has to offer. If you are looking for a quick get away by going on a trek on the himalayas, but are not sure if you are fit enough to go trekking, or you are short on time for a long trek, then Poon Hill Trek is the most suitable and enjoyable experience for you.
Release Date: White Mountaineering x adidas LXCON The White Mountaineering x adidas LXCON is the latest offering from the collaboration between the Japanese label and German sportswear brand for SS20. This silhouette also follows up both brands' collab with last year's Nite Jogger.
Compensation payments to Wind Farms? Last night there was an interesting piece on BBC Scotland. I have been interested in the Wind farm and renewables debate it's a very debatable subject for many and interesting to see the reaction by many of both sides of the discussion. Comment W.W.
What Does Into Thin Air Say About Women? Constituting roughly a mere 10% of the total climbers, women are greatly outnumbered by men on Mount Everest. This number can be seen true in Into Thin Air, as there are only four women on the same expedition as Krakauer, with only two of them ever climbing past base camp.